Zillertal has always been a very special place to me and it is the valley where I spent a lot of time bouldering as well as sport climbing. I always wanted to climb this route called "total brutal", which is right above the road which leads into Ginzling. I have driven past it for several years. I am well aware that the route is artificial, but it is still part of Zillertal's climbing history.
My friend Hannes had tried the route and this June he asked me whether I would be motivated to try it with him. Since I had more or less finished my semester at university it did not take long to convince me. We drove into the valley and the first day went really well, I figured out a good beta and was very happy with it. I was close to climbing the route and also Hannes made good progress. We were both motivated to come back. That is why we found ourselves underneath the face again after a rest day. We warmed up, and after a good try, I was confident that I was eventually able to climb the route. I took a deep breath and crimped hard. I felt pumped on the finishing ramp, but I did not want to let go anymore. I was really happy, when I clipped the chain. Unfortunately Hannes was not able to climb the route that day, but I am sure he'll be back crimping hard and not letting go :) . A huge thanks goes to Hannes for his motivation and support and also to Daniel for the pictures!